Home |
| Basics
Composting is one of the most local and productive forms of sustainable
living. Composting uses biodegradable household waste (non-meat food
waste, primarily) to create superb soil food. The best compost
generally incorporates animal manure, and a layering of dried
("brown"), high-carbon material (e.g., straw, dried grass, corn
stalks),
and green (moist, high-nitrogen) material (e.g., cut grass or fresh
hay). Good compost heats up sufficiently to kill weed seeds in the
pile. Compost must be kept moist. This can be aided with the biodynamic
technique of "plastering" the pile with a slurry of soil, clay, and
manure after the pile has been wetted. The "plaster" will seal in
moisture. Simple Composting (Wire-bin) A do-it-yourself compost bin can be as simple as a ring of rabbit fence. See the how-to here, or have a look at recommended commercial bins here. In general, compost heaps take six to twelve weeks to break down, depending on temperature, aeration, and the materials used. Turning the compost every few weeks will accelerate this process. Biodynamic Composting Biodynamic composting (see Biodynamics) involves basic, sound composting principles and the application of biodynamic preparations designed to increase the microbial and life energy of the pile. (Skeptics might well find some of the biodynamic practices dubious, but biodynamic famers just grin and harvest the benefits of these strange rituals.) Vermicomposting Worm castings are an excellent organic fertilizer, and worm composting (vermicompost) set-ups can live indoors (for example, in your basement) and provide a good place for kitchen scraps during cold winters. Worms can be fed most waste from the kitchen, with the exceptions of animal waste, dairy, and fats. A worm composter, done right, will not generate odors or flies, so indoors is workable (and in cold climes, required, since the worms don't like temperatures below 54 degrees). A great (free) Web resource for worm composting is Worm Digest. Free plans for a do-it-yourself worm bin built from commonly-available plastic tubs are available here. For those without the time or inclination, pre-built worm composters are often on Ebay (see sidebar). Note that the bins in some systems (Worm Factory for one) have fairly large openings in the bottom mesh. Worms will fall through this mesh often, and despite a reputed ability to climb back up, they generally don't. (Tip: When you're setting up the very first worm bin, put a piece of fiberglass or other non-toxic screen over this mesh before you put in any bedding material or newspaper. You'll spend a lot less time rescuing worms that drop through into the base.) Worms and worm bedding are available from Gardener's supply (though thin strips of damp newspaper work fine as bedding).. Leaves in Compost Leaves are a great addition to compost, providing necessary carbon and minerals pulled from deep soil. However, leaves present some problems. In an unshredded state, they break down very slowly and tend to form mats in the compost pile. Also, evergreen needles, oak leaves, and most maples are very acidic. This can interfere with the composting process, and produce compost that is too acidic for many plants (though potentially great for acid-loving blueberries, azaleas, etc.). We recommend that you shred any leaves headed to the compost pile. This can be done with a leaf shredder, available from most hardware/home supply stores, or with a push or riding lawnmower. With most mowers, to sufficiently shred them, you will need to go over the leaves two or three times before picking them up. For leaf pH, if only acidic leaves are available, you might want to limit the amount of leaf material in your compost. But with the exception of oak and maple, many leaves are near neutral in pH, so if you have a variety of trees, try to concoct a blend of shredded leaves that is not overwhlemingly acidic. Wood Ash Wood ash is a great source of potash and other minerals, but is also extremely alkaline. Do not put much wood ash in a compost pile (though a bit could be used to balance acidic leaf/pine needle waste, if you have it. Compost Crops If you have the space, it makes sense to grow some crops specifically for adding to your compot. High-carbon, stalky crops like sorghum or broomcorn provide an excellent 'floor' for a pile, and also can be latticed to provide airspace within the pile. Cereal rye provides lots of green matter, and clover, vetch, or alfalfa provide nitrogen. Buckwheat is a fast-growing cover crop that draws phosphorus from the soil, and can produce a compost of particular benefit to phosphorus-loving crops like tomatoes and peppers. |
